Etiketten kunnen dus met water en warmte worden verwijderd.
Some clues to look for to identify these labels include thinness, a paper-y feel, and edges of the label beginning to peel away from the bottle where the glue has gotten old and unsticky.
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Many labels have a very plastic feel. They are literally stickers that have been placed on the bottles, some are even transparent as a dead giveaway. As long as you can recognize these, they are very easy to remove – just take a single edged razor and slowly pry one side away from the bottle. After you have an inch away from the bottle, you can usually just start to pull on that and have it come away very neatly. Often the label will get stuck in little places and the front of the label will separate from the backing that is still on the bottle – you should go slow enough so that you notice this happening and then correct it with the razor blade before it becomes a significant size. After you remove the label, stick it on some black construction paper for a nice backing, then cut it out.
I think a majority of American microbreweries use this kind of sticker label. Some examples that use them almost exclusively: Bruery, Jolly Pumpkin, Cascade, Southern Tier, Lost Abbey / Pizza Port, Russian River, Hair of the Dog.
In Scandinavian breweries, sticker labels are so common that I have come to assume it by default: Nogne, Amager, HaandBryggeriet, etc. Mikkeller also, usually, but since they’re a nomad brewery and use others’ facilities, different brews have different label types.
Occasionally I have seen sticker labels that do not come off smoothly. I remember B Nektar’s mead labels as being particularly stubborn. In such cases, I end up using a combination of this and Method 3.
Occasionally I have seen sticker labels that have a shiny foil backing, like the Porterhouse brewery in Ireland. I haven’t ever managed to successfully remove one intact, but I’m pretty sure the only way would be to *very* slowly razor the entire label. I would recommend skipping these ones (http://patrickbarry.com/blog/how-to-remove-beer-labels-intact-from-bottles).
There are basically three types of labels and two types of glue. Of the three types of labels you will find: Peel and stick, regular paper, and metallic. The two types of glue are easy and hard.
First you need a razor blade scraper. Then using your scraper, see if the label peels up easily by slipping the blade under the label. Use the back label if the bottle has one or another bottle of the same brand that has a damaged label if you have more than bottle to experiment with. Peel offs are often shiny and appear to have a plastic laminate or gloss over them. They will be sticky on the back if you work a corner loose. I heat bottles with peel offs in a warm oven (275F) for a few minutes and work the labels onto white paper and then trim them.
If the label isn’t a peel off, I check to see how tightly it is glued on. One in a hundred will have brittle, dried up glue and the label will almost pop right off with a little help from the scraper. If it’s glued tightly, and it’s not a metallic label, I next will fill the bottle with hot water. Some loosen up with some heat. Next, I’ll try placing the bottle full of hot water into a pitcher of hot water. Hot water will loosen many labels but on occasion, it will also destroy one, so if you’ve got one that’s irreplaceable, you might want to put that one aside for now.
Start with just half a minute or so. The less time it’s in the hot water the better. Increase the time until you get it to loosen. You can return it for a few seconds if it gets tough and then work your way around.
Metallic and other hard-to-remove labels really are a PITA. Water won’t soak through them to soften the glue, and they end up all crinkled up if you work them hard. I try to dry peel these. It might help to give the bottle a good drying out in the oven on a low heat to dry the glue. If that doesn’t work, I use the scraper and an eyedropper full of hot water to loosen the glue from the back. Soak, scrape, and repeat. Next, I try an eyedropper full of fingernail tip remover instead of the hot water (www.ratebeer.com/Story.asp?StoryID=444).
Op dit filmpje wordt mooi uitgelegd hoe je kan bepalen of een etiket geschikt is voor afweken (koud of warm water) of warmte (oven of magnetron):
Het gaat dan wel over wijnflessen, maar is vergelijkbaar in de bierscene. Als ik al die filmkes en (oude) boeken doorlees bekruipt mij soms het gevoel dat 'craft beer' nu, vergelijkbaar is met 'huis'wijn uit de jaren zeventig...
Gelukkig zijn onze technieken nu veel verder dan toen... maar we gebruiken nog steeds water, een oven en een scheermesje...
Some clues to look for to identify these labels include thinness, a paper-y feel, and edges of the label beginning to peel away from the bottle where the glue has gotten old and unsticky.
...
Many labels have a very plastic feel. They are literally stickers that have been placed on the bottles, some are even transparent as a dead giveaway. As long as you can recognize these, they are very easy to remove – just take a single edged razor and slowly pry one side away from the bottle. After you have an inch away from the bottle, you can usually just start to pull on that and have it come away very neatly. Often the label will get stuck in little places and the front of the label will separate from the backing that is still on the bottle – you should go slow enough so that you notice this happening and then correct it with the razor blade before it becomes a significant size. After you remove the label, stick it on some black construction paper for a nice backing, then cut it out.
I think a majority of American microbreweries use this kind of sticker label. Some examples that use them almost exclusively: Bruery, Jolly Pumpkin, Cascade, Southern Tier, Lost Abbey / Pizza Port, Russian River, Hair of the Dog.
In Scandinavian breweries, sticker labels are so common that I have come to assume it by default: Nogne, Amager, HaandBryggeriet, etc. Mikkeller also, usually, but since they’re a nomad brewery and use others’ facilities, different brews have different label types.
Occasionally I have seen sticker labels that do not come off smoothly. I remember B Nektar’s mead labels as being particularly stubborn. In such cases, I end up using a combination of this and Method 3.
Occasionally I have seen sticker labels that have a shiny foil backing, like the Porterhouse brewery in Ireland. I haven’t ever managed to successfully remove one intact, but I’m pretty sure the only way would be to *very* slowly razor the entire label. I would recommend skipping these ones (http://patrickbarry.com/blog/how-to-remove-beer-labels-intact-from-bottles).
There are basically three types of labels and two types of glue. Of the three types of labels you will find: Peel and stick, regular paper, and metallic. The two types of glue are easy and hard.
First you need a razor blade scraper. Then using your scraper, see if the label peels up easily by slipping the blade under the label. Use the back label if the bottle has one or another bottle of the same brand that has a damaged label if you have more than bottle to experiment with. Peel offs are often shiny and appear to have a plastic laminate or gloss over them. They will be sticky on the back if you work a corner loose. I heat bottles with peel offs in a warm oven (275F) for a few minutes and work the labels onto white paper and then trim them.
If the label isn’t a peel off, I check to see how tightly it is glued on. One in a hundred will have brittle, dried up glue and the label will almost pop right off with a little help from the scraper. If it’s glued tightly, and it’s not a metallic label, I next will fill the bottle with hot water. Some loosen up with some heat. Next, I’ll try placing the bottle full of hot water into a pitcher of hot water. Hot water will loosen many labels but on occasion, it will also destroy one, so if you’ve got one that’s irreplaceable, you might want to put that one aside for now.
Start with just half a minute or so. The less time it’s in the hot water the better. Increase the time until you get it to loosen. You can return it for a few seconds if it gets tough and then work your way around.
Metallic and other hard-to-remove labels really are a PITA. Water won’t soak through them to soften the glue, and they end up all crinkled up if you work them hard. I try to dry peel these. It might help to give the bottle a good drying out in the oven on a low heat to dry the glue. If that doesn’t work, I use the scraper and an eyedropper full of hot water to loosen the glue from the back. Soak, scrape, and repeat. Next, I try an eyedropper full of fingernail tip remover instead of the hot water (www.ratebeer.com/Story.asp?StoryID=444).
Op dit filmpje wordt mooi uitgelegd hoe je kan bepalen of een etiket geschikt is voor afweken (koud of warm water) of warmte (oven of magnetron):
Het gaat dan wel over wijnflessen, maar is vergelijkbaar in de bierscene. Als ik al die filmkes en (oude) boeken doorlees bekruipt mij soms het gevoel dat 'craft beer' nu, vergelijkbaar is met 'huis'wijn uit de jaren zeventig...
Gelukkig zijn onze technieken nu veel verder dan toen... maar we gebruiken nog steeds water, een oven en een scheermesje...